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Kanye West's debut show...
By Carrie Gorman | Posted: Sun 02 Oct 2011
Sometimes you can do everything right. Ahead of Kanye West's debut show at Paris fashion week on Saturday night he had spent years of preparation sitting front row at other people's shows, making friends with fashion designers, employing the services of next big things (rumoured to be Louise Goldin, Katie Eary and someone ex-Givenchy), enlisting the help of a hot shot PR company to bring in a crowd of top editors, including Anna Wintour, and make it a thing.
But when the lights on the stage at the beautiful Lyc�e Henri come up and a countdown to "we have lift off" rings out overhead, all that peels away and what's left is the merit of the clothes.
The expensive model line-up featuring Chanel Iman, Anya Rubik, Karlie Kloss, Abbey Lee Kershaw and Jourdan Dunn couldn't quite make this collection work. Navy leather jackets and snake insert skirts looked too cumbersome for these professionals to pull off. Zips tracked everything, scissoring trousers in to three parts, left too open for comfort up the back of a ribbed LBD and slashing ribbed dresses to within a inch of its existence. Fur was prevalent and unapologetic, used needlessly as a rucksack as if for the sole purpose of showing off wealth. But in Kanye's world, that is rather the point.
There were shades of each of the designers styles who were sat front row. Altuzarra, Alexander Wang, Dean and Dan Caten, Oliver Theyskens, Jeremy Scott, the Olsen twins all had a nod to their aesthetic which created too many themes to give it a single voice.
Were we expecting too much because of the machine behind this launch? Would we scrutinise another newcomer to this degree? Doubtful. And there were interesting ideas to take away: the intricate beadwork on sleeves, the fierce heels, the woven rib tube skirts... It would be a shame if this was the last we saw of Kanye West at fashion week. He has room to grow, knows how to put on a show and of course, the music was excellent.
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